Bolognese Sauce In Bologna, Italy
Italy offers such a wealth of places to visit that Bologna, a city with exquisite architecture and delicious food, often gets overlooked. We did not make the mistake of bypassing it. Bologna richly rewarded a leisurely stroll through its maze of streets where we could gradually appreciate the ochre, brown, orange and yellow colours of the walls, which warmed us and made us feel welcome. We started our tour at the Piazza Maggiore, which is the heart of the city. On one side of the square is the Basilica di San Petronio a magnificent Renaissance church whose construction started in the fourteenth century but is still technically unfinished, with its facade only partially covered in stone.
Opposite the church is the Palazzo D’Accursio, built as an administrative office for the city that now hosts a museum and city library. The Piazza Maggiore itself is a lively square lined with cafes and restaurants. It was a wonderful spot for us to relax, have a cup of coffee, and people watch.
The most astonishing sight in Bologna is the Due Torri, two towers that soar over 300 ft in the air. These medieval skyscrapers, built in the early twelfth century, are now the symbols of the city and its most visible landmarks. At one time there were over 100 such towers in Bologna, as they were easy to defend during the frequent conflicts that broke out in Renaissance Italy and a symbol of the power and prestige of the families that owned them.
One of the pleasures of walking through Bologna are the porticoes and archways on front of every building. For centuries every building was required to have a portico in front and today they offer a cool, shaded pathway that saved us from the afternoon heat. We walked along these to the Piazza Santo Stefano, a triangular piazza filled with pedestrians, cafes and gelato shops.
On one side of the piazza is a complex of churches known as the Basilica di Santo Stefano, portions of which date back to the fifth century. The cloister of the church offered a peaceful refuge from the bustle of the piazza outside.
The best reason for us to visit Bolgona, of course, was the food. There is a good reason that its nickname is La Grassa - The Fat One. Bologna lies in the middle of the Emiglia Romagna region, home to Parmigiano cheese, Parma ham and limitless varieties of balsamic vinegar. There are such an endless variety of dishes to try that we literally ate our way through Bologna!
Bologna is where Mortadella comes from, famous around the world as Bologna sausage. We tried platters of mortadella, other sausages and salami in some of the wine bars around the Piazza Maggiore. We tried slices by themselves and in little sandwiches - they are all delicious!
Of course you have to round off your meal with a gelato or two. Cremeria La Vecchia Stalla is the best in town with a long waiting line to prove it! Their motto also rings true - To be happy, an ice cream is enough!
Bologna’s claim to fame, Ragu’ alla Bolognese is eaten with pappardelle or tagliatelle, which is served in sadly inferior versions all over the world as Spaghetti Bolognese. We had this rich, meaty, tomato saucy pasta in so many wonderful restaurants that I had to carry on the tradition in my own kitchen!
This recipe is generously shared by my good friend Paola Moscato, an expert in Italian cooking. Using good quality Italian tomatoes is imperative for this sauce. Paola likes to add some tomato paste to help the tomatoes along. She uses whipping cream instead of milk for added richness and cooks pancetta along with the onions for that special smoky flavour. Use this rich, creamy, flavourful sauce to envelop your favourite pasta with a nice glass of wine to accompany it!
Bolognese Sauce
2 tbsp butter + 2 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 mdm onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped pancetta or bacon
1 mdm carrot, finely chopped
1 stick celery, thinly sliced
400g lean ground beef
Salt to taste
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil plus extra for garnish
1 cup white wine
3 cups canned Italian tomatoes, roughly chopped, with juices
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/3 cup whipping cream
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano for serving
Warm butter and olive oil in deep heavy bottomed skillet set over medium high heat.
Add garlic, onions and chopped pancetta or bacon. Saute, stirring occasionally for about 5 min until pancetta has rendered its fat and onions are lightly browned.
Add chopped carrot and celery, saute for 2 min.
Add ground beef, stirring and breaking up the lumps.
Add salt, pepper and basil. Saute beef for about 5 min until no longer pink.
Add wine and mix well. Cook for about 5 min until absorbed.
Add tomatoes and their juices and the tomato paste. Mix well, cover skillet and reduce heat to very low.
Cook for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally. The sauce should be quite thick at this point.
Mix in the whipping cream, cover and cook for about 30 min until well incorporated, stirring now and then.
Fold in 250g of your favourite cooked pasta such as pappardelle or tagliatelle and serve topped with grated Parmesan cheese and slivered basil leaves.
Note: If your pasta sauce is too thick, add a couple ladles of the past cooking liquid to thin it out.
Serves Four
