Roast Potatoes In Düsseldorf, Germany

A visit to Düsseldorf never disappoints. This city has so much to offer with it's charm, elegance, high fashion, good food and local beer. Add museums, historic churches, a vibrant waterfront  and you've got enough to keep you busy for days!

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Düsseldorf's delightful Altstadt or old town nestles by the waterfront, overlooking the Rhine river that is the lifeblood of the city. Stroll along narrow, cobbled streets as you explore shops, restaurants and bars. Nearby is the broad expanse of the waterfront with a tree lined promenade for walks along the river. The riverfront is also lined with more bars, creating an especially lively, boisterous scene on summer weekend evenings! 

Düsseldorf is Germany's fashion capital and its main shopping street, the Königsallee or Kö for short, is where you find it. Here you can window shop or wander inside for some high end designer shopping. With a lovely, huge park at one end and a beautifully landscaped canal running through its centre, the Kö is a great place to fritter away an afternoon.

And if all this exploring tires you out, step into one of Düsseldorf's beer halls to revive yourself. Often dating back several centuries, these legendary establishments are brimming with beer and bonhomie. Some of the historic, well known ones have been brewing from their own secret recipe for generations and are very atmospheric inside.

It is impressive to see servers balancing huge trays of beer glasses in one hand, held high over diner's heads as they weave their way through the crowd. Empty glasses are plucked up as soon as they are set down, replaced unasked with a full one, with a running tally pencilled on the paper coaster beneath. Ask for a glass of wine like I did, and you're going to get a very disgusted look!
Beer hall food is all about sausages, meats and potatoes, served in hearty proportions. Better not eat here if you're looking for healthier vegetarian fare! Potatoes in roasted or mashed form are usually a delectable part of every meal.

These are not your everyday roast potatoes (although we did eat them almost every day in Germany!). They have so much flavour to them thanks to the mustard, bacon, vinegar and herbs, that they would go well with practically anything. 
Try more easy, delicious German style recipes such as Roasted smashed garlic potatoes or Currywurst  

German Style Roast Potatoes

1 lb small potatoes (in assorted colours if possible)

3 tbsp oil, divided

Salt and Pepper to taste

1 small onion, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)

2 slices bacon, chopped

1 tsp grainy Dijon mustard

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Heat oven to 420F. Line a baking tray with parchment.

Wash, scrub and halve potatoes, leaving the peel on. Toss with 2 tbsp oil, salt and pepper. Spread on tray. Bake for 30 min or until soft and lightly browned. Switch off oven and let potatoes continue to roast in it's fading heat for another 10 min.

Warm remaining 1 tbsp oil in skillet over medium heat. Add onion and bacon. Cook 7-8 min until onions are softened and bacon is rendering it's fat.

Add roasted potatoes and continue cooking for another 10 min until potatoes are lightly crispy in the bacon fat.

Add mustard, vinegar and parsley. Cook for 2 min, then transfer to a serving bowl.

Serves four

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Goulash Soup In Cologne, Germany

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One of the greatest attractions of visiting Cologne is its magnificent Gothic cathedral. Its soaring spires can be seen from a great distance, long before you enter the city. Take the train in as we did, and you will be overwhelmed by the sheer size of this imposing cathedral as it towers right above the station!

We marvelled at the beautiful filigree designs, intricate carvings and impressive main doors of the building as we made our way inside. Started in 1248, this cathedral is a World Heritage site and one of Germany's most visited places. Inside, amongst its many treasures, is the reliquary of the Three Kings which is believed to hold the remains of the three wise men who bore gifts for the infant Jesus. These holy relics made Cologne one of the  greatest pilgrimage sites in medieval Europe and spread the fame of the cathedral across the continent. 

Cologne's magnificent cathedral is only one of the reasons people flock to this vibrant city. With museums to explore, a lively nightlife and lots of restaurants, bars and cafes, there is never a dull moment here! We loved exploring the Altstadt or old town, with it's atmospheric medieval streets, historic buildings and boisterous beer halls. Try and visit on a weekend when It gets especially fun and lively!

A stroll along the bustling waterfront, lined with picturesque old buildings and parks, thrumming with street musicians and artists is a fun way to spend an afternoon or evening. Here you can people watch to your heart's content while sipping on something restorative and see ships glide by on the nearby Rhine river.

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We had a delicious bowl of goulash soup here one crisp afternoon during our recent visit. Goulash soup, with it's warming, comforting flavours is perfect for colder weather. In Germany, it can vary from being thick and almost stew-like to a thinner, soupier version. However you choose to make it, make sure to serve some crusty bread on the side!


The smoky notes from the bacon, roasted pepper, toasted caraway and smoked paprika, along with the red wine add depth and richness to this hearty stew-like soup. Serve with a dollop of sour cream for extra richness!
For another variation of this dish, try Hungarian style Goulash

 Goulash Soup

2 tbsp oil

2 medium onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 large sprig thyme

2 slices bacon, chopped

1 medium carrot, chopped

1 stick celery, chopped

1 medium potato, peeled and chopped

1 sweet red pepper (roasted or fresh), chopped

1-1/2 lb boneless stewing beef, cubed into bite sized pieces

1 tbsp all purpose flour

1 cup red wine

2 cups beef broth

4 large juicy plum tomatoes, fresh or canned, chopped

Salt and Pepper to taste

1 tsp each: smoked paprika, sweet paprika, oregano, toasted ground caraway or cumin seeds, sugar

2 tbsp each: chopped fresh parsley, red wine vinegar

Warm oil in deep saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, thyme, bacon, carrot, celery, potato and sweet pepper. Saute for 10 min until bacon has rendered its fat and vegetables are softened.

Add beef cubes and brown for 5 min. Add flour, stirring to incorporate, about 30 sec.

Add red wine and deglaze the pan, scraping up all the brown bits sticking to the bottom of the pan. Add broth, tomatoes, salt and pepper as well as all the spices and sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook on low heat for 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally.

The vegetables should be practically disintegrating into the soup and the meat should be fork tender at this point. If soup is too thin, uncover, increase heat to medium and boil off some of the extra broth. Remove thyme sprig.

Mix in the vinegar and fresh parsley and serve.

Serves four

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Apple Cardamom Muffins In Ontario, Canada

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Fall is our favourite time of year, with changing colours transforming ordinary landscapes into brilliant works of art. Leaves in glowing reds, shimmering oranges and pale yellows adorn the trees, making a long, leisurely drive into the countryside one of the highlights of this season.

This year, unseasonably warm weather slowed the progress of Fall and dimmed the colours on the trees, making our scenic road trips a little less vibrant. On the other hand, this meant that we could still sit outside on a restaurant patio by the water, watch sailboats pull into the marina, and enjoy a fresh seafood lunch in the sun!

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The sandy beaches and warm waters of Lake Ontario beckoned to us on an unusually hot day recently and we headed off to Presqu'ile Provincial Park for a day of sun, sand and hiking.

This park has lovely, long, shallow sandy beaches, lots of great hiking trails and one of the oldest lighthouses in the region. It is a nice day trip out of Toronto, if you want to get away from it all.

On the way, we stopped at The Big Apple, a huge bakery, restaurant and farm market which is visible all the way from the highway. We came home armed with a delicious medley of apples and jugs of fresh apple cider. The apples were crisp and slightly tart - perfect to eat and cook with!

If you love cooking with apples, try these easy apple muffins. Loaded with chunks of fruit and delicately scented with cardamom, they are great for breakfast. Or, pair them with home made Saffron Rosewater Ice cream and wow your guests with an unforgettable dessert!

Apple Cardamom Muffins

2 cups all purpose flour

2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp ground cardamom

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened

1/2 cup each: granulated white sugar, brown sugar

2 eggs

1 tsp vanilla essence

1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup apple cider

2 apples, peeled, cored and diced into very small pieces (about 2 cups)

1/4 cup Demerara sugar for sprinkling, optional

Preheat oven to 350F. Line a 12 cup muffin pan with muffin cups or spray lightly with cooking spray.

Combine flour, baking powder and ground cardamom in mixing bowl.

Combine butter and sugars in separate large mixing bowl with hand blender.

Add eggs, beating lightly after each addition.

Mix in vanilla.

Add the flour mixture in 1/4 cup segments, alternating with the milk.

Add the apple cider at the end and mix well to blend.

Fold in the apple pieces with a spatula, mixing them into the batter.

Spoon batter evenly into prepared muffin pan and lightly sprinkle tops with demerara sugar, if using.

Bake for 30 min or until a toothpick inserted in center of muffin comes out clean.

Let muffins rest for 10 min, then serve warm. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate any leftover muffins.

Makes 12 Muffins


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Chèvre Omelettes In Chambord, Loire valley, France

The Château of Chambord is by far the biggest of the historic palaces in the Loire valley, with an elaborate facade bristling with chimneys, towers and turrets that make it look like a cluster of houses rather than a single building. Careful observation shows that each feature is unique, carefully positioned to ensure that there is no symmetry in the building.

Chambord was originally built in the sixteenth century as a hunting lodge for King François I, who made only a few brief visits to it. It is believed that part of the building was designed by Leonardo da Vinci, a guest of the king at that time in nearby Amboise.

Chambord was almost abandoned after the death of the king, and it was not until a century later that it became a royal residence again. For years it served as a hunting lodge, before passing into the possession of other members of the royal family who occupied it year around and expanded it to its current sprawling size.

The château is famous for its extensive gardens that stretch out for miles. The lawns surrounding the main building have been carefully trimmed in such exquisite patterns that they appear to have been painted on rather than grown. Chambord remained one of the largest palaces in France until Louis XIV decided to expand another of his hunting lodges, at Versailles, and convert it into a spectacular residence that nobody in Europe has ever outdone.

If you visit the Loire Valley, be sure to taste some of the famous fromage de Chèvre (goat cheese) that is a specialty of this region. From the soft, crumbly, creamy version to the aged, firmer variety and so many more in between, Chèvre is always included in the cheese course at the end of a meal and also used in many creative ways in local cuisine. We often started our day with a delicious, fluffy Chèvre omelette and if you follow my easy recipe below, you can too!


You can play around with this recipe and add spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes or thyme. Throw in a bowl of French Onion Soup and you may as well be in France!

Chèvre Omelette With Chives

3 eggs

Salt and Pepper to taste

2 tbsp each: milk or cream, chopped fresh chives, unsalted butter, crumbled goat cheese (at room temperature)

Beat eggs with a whisk or fork until well combined and light in colour, about 2 min.

Add salt, pepper and milk or cream. Beat again to combine, 1 min. Fold in 1 tbsp of the chives.

Melt butter in large frying pan set over medium heat, swirling pan to distribute butter evenly.

Pour egg mixture into pan, tilting it to spread evenly. Once the edges have set lightly, push them in slightly and tip skillet to let uncooked portion of the egg run underneath.

Sprinkle goat cheese evenly over top. Cover skillet with a lid to melt cheese, about 1 min.

When omelette is cooked, fold it in half and slide it onto a plate. Garnish with remaining 1 tbsp chives.

Serves one-two

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Moules Marinières In The Loire Valley, France

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The Château of Chinon stands on the banks of the river Vienne, encircled by vineyards that produce the wines for which the region is famous. Gazing at these tranquil surroundings it is hard to imagine that this was the location of some of the bloodiest conflicts in European history, which played a decisive role in determining the fate of medieval France and England.

Chinon was the principal residence of Henry II, from which he ruled his sprawling kingdom that encompassed both England and a large part of western France. Here he battled not only the French king and renegade barons, but also his own turbulent family, including his four sons who were in a constant state of rebellion. They were encouraged and abetted in their attempts to seize the throne by their mother, the indomitable Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Henry beat back the challenge from his offspring, but time is always on the side of the young. Henry died while still at Chinon and was succeeded by his second son, soon to become famous as Richard the Lionheart. Eleanor outlived them both, becoming the effective ruler for many years while Richard was off crusading in the Holy Land.

Henry was buried at the nearby Abbey of Fontevraud and he was eventually followed there by both Richard and Eleanor when they died. Now they all lie side-by-side in the silent interior of the abbey chapel. Stepping out from the hush of the tombs into the cloistered gardens inside the abbey, one can only hope that they have eventually found the peace that they certainly never knew in their lifetimes.

Touring vast chateaux can get tiring. Revive yourself with fabulous food in one of their signature restaurants. Often situated right in the sprawling grounds of the chateau, these restaurants feature fantastic, innovative food with reasonable (lunch) prices. Here, you can sit in the shade of an ancient tree, gazing out at spectacularly beautiful gardens while savoring the best food you will eat in your entire trip!

Classic, sophisticated and easy to make, this French favourite will wow your family and friends! Serve with crusty baguette and a crisp salad, and if you have any of that wine left after cooking, serve that too!
Pair this dish with a Chèvre Omelette for a delicious meal.

Moules Marinières

2 lb fresh mussels, scrubbed

2 tbsp butter

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 large sprig of thyme

1/2 cup white wine

Salt to taste

1/4-1/2 tsp ground black Pepper

1/4 cup whipping cream

2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Toasted baguette

Clean mussels and discard any that are open. Transfer to a bowl.

Warm butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add shallots, garlic and thyme sprig. Saute for 2-3 min, until lightly softened.

Add reserved mussels, white wine, salt and pepper. Give it a good mix, cover and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium low and cook for about 4 min or until mussels have steamed open.

Pick over with tongs and discard any mussels that haven't opened, as well as the sprig of thyme.

Add cream, parsley and lemon juice, mixing well. Cook 1 min to incorporate.

Serve right away with toasted baguette.

Note: For a thicker sauce, remove cooked mussels from broth and reserve in a bowl. Bring broth to a boil over medium high heat and reduce until lightly thickened, about 2-3 min. Add mussels, mix well before serving.

Serves four

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Ratatouille In The Loire Valley, France

The Loire valley is ideally situated to be the playground for the rich and powerful in France. Close to Paris, and with stunningly beautiful scenery on the banks of the Loire, Indre and Cher rivers, French kings, queens and aristocrats have been building their luxurious châteaus in this region for centuries. Many of the greatest moments of French history have been played out in the halls of these magnificent palaces.

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The château of Amboise is one of the oldest in the region, and reached it's height of glory in the early sixteenth century during the reign of King François I, who grew up there and made it his principal residence. The château of Amboise towers above the Loire river from where it dominates the surrounding countryside.

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François I was a fervent admirer of the Italian renaissance, and he invited many of the great artists of the time to his court, including Leonardo da Vinci. The great painter came, carrying the still unfinished painting of the Mona Lisa in his baggage. He spent the last few years of his life at Amboise, and is said to have died while being watched over by the king. He was buried in a small chapel in the castle, that still stands.

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The most famous château is perhaps that of Chenoceau. Its main halls are built on a bridge that spans the river Cher, creating an iconic image. The stunning reflection of the building in the river and the gardens that stretch out around it attract more visitors than any other site in the Loire valley.

Chenonceau came into the possession of King Henri II, son of François I, who gifted it to his beloved mistress Diane de Poitiers who lived there and built the graceful span across the river. Unfortunately Henri II died in a jousting accident, and his widow, Catherine de Medici became the Regent of France, ruling in the name of her infant son. Catherine had a somewhat jaundiced view of her late husband's generous presents, and forced Diane to return the château. Catherine made Chenonceau her own favourite residence and expanded it even further.

If there is any château that competes with Chenonceau for the title of the loveliest building in the Loire valley, it is that of Azay-le-Rideau.

Azay-le-Rideau is one of the smaller châteaus in the region, but it is a perfect little gem. Set on an island in the middle of the Indre river, it looks like a fairy-tale castle, complete with pointed rooftops on the corner towers. All it needs are Sleeping Beauty and a handsome prince for the fantasy to be complete!


The Loire valley is famous for its gastronomy. There is amazing food to be found in chic Michelin starred restaurants tucked away in tiny little towns. Opt for the set lunch menu and you will dine like a king at a very affordable price! Ratatouille, with sweet summer ripened vegetables is a classic from this region and needs only crusty bread to mop up it all up.
Try your hand at another easy French classic - Moules Mariniéres.


4 tbsp oil, divided

2 cups each, 1/2 inch dice: eggplant, assorted coloured zucchini, assorted coloured sweet peppers

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1 large sprig of thyme

2 cups pureed tomatoes, fresh or canned

Salt and Pepper to taste

2 tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley

Warm 2 tbsp oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add eggplant and cook for about 5-7 min until lightly browned and softened. Transfer to a bowl.

Add remaining 2 tbsp oil to skillet. Add onions, garlic and thyme. Saute until lightly browned and softened, about 5-7 min.

Add zucchini and peppers. Saute for another 5-7 min until vegetables are softened.

Add eggplant back to skillet. Cook 2 min.

Add tomatoes, salt and pepper, mixing in gently. Cover and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce heat to medium low and cook for about 15-20 min until vegetables are soft and sauce is thick. Remove thyme sprig.

Transfer ratatouille to a serving bowl and sprinkle fresh parsley over top.

Serves four

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Crepes In Versailles

Louis XIV was never a man to believe in understatement. When he decided to renovate his father's hunting lodge in the little village of Versailles, the final result was a palace that still staggers the imagination. It served not just as the home of the king, but also as his seat of government and a residence for all the aristocracy of France. Much of French culture and style was developed in these sprawling hallways, while courtiers conspired and intrigued in a never-ending scramble for power and influence.

The Hall of Mirrors is the most impressive part of the palace. Its walls are lined with mirrors, which in the seventeenth century were an incredibly expensive luxury. The workmen who made them had to be enticed from Venice, at the time the only place where the technology to make mirrors existed. The Venetian government was so enraged at the loss of their monopoly that it dispatched assassins to eliminate the renegade craftsmen.

Every corner of Versailles is stuffed with paintings, sculpture, and furniture, all overlaid with gilt and silk. It remains a remarkable monument to the man who was revered as the Sun King, and enjoyed being portrayed as a Roman god.

The breathtaking splendour of the palace spills out into it's gardens, which are dazzling in their symmetry. Laid out in 1661 by André Le Nôtre, they stretch out into the horizon in an enchanting display of manicured lawns, tree lined hedges and colourful flower beds. As you walk deeper into the gardens, you will see many lovely marble sculptures, imposing fountains and even an orangery with orange and lemon trees.

Taking in the grandeur of the palace and it's gardens can be exhausting. We revived ourselves with a pitcher of cider and crepes! Crisp crepes with lacy edges remind me of South-Indian dosas, made with fermented rice and lentil batter. Stuff them with eggs, ham and cheese like the French or with spicy potatoes as in India and you have yourself a fabulous treat!


Buckwheat crepes, also known as galettes have a deep, earthy flavour that pairs well with savoury fillings such as eggs, ham and cheese. Serve them with a side of Ratatouille or a fresh salad for a delicious meal.
Try your hand at making Indian crepes, a delicious variation made with chickpea flour.

Buckwheat Crepes

Crepe Batter:

3/4 cup buckwheat flour

2/3 cup (1/2 cup+2 tbsp) all purpose flour

Salt to taste

2 eggs

11/2 cups milk

1/2 cup water

4 tbsp melted butter, divided

Crepe Toppings:

Grated Gruyere cheese

Thinly sliced ham

Freshly fried eggs

Combine both flours and salt in large mixing bowl. Whisk in eggs, milk, water and 2 tbsp butter until well blended and lightly aerated. Let stand 15 min.

Warm 1/2 tsp butter in large non stick frying pan or crepe pan set over medium heat.

Add about 1/3 cup of the batter and swirl the pan in a circular motion to evenly distribute the batter in a thin layer over bottom of pan.


Cook until batter dries up on top and edges are crisped, about 1-2 min.

Sprinkle some of the grated cheese on crepe, top with ham and a fried egg.

Fold over edges of crepe in a rectangular package, leaving just the egg yolk exposed. Sprinkle some salt over egg yolk if desired.

Cook some more until crepe bottom is crisped up to your liking, about another min.



Serve crepes hot off the stove and repeat with remaining batter, butter and fillings.


Serves four

Croque Monsieur In Paris

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"I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles", run the lyrics of the Cole Porter song, and we agree with him wholeheartedly. A walk along the Seine under a brilliant blue summer sky is enough to remind us why Paris is as close to perfection as any city can get.

The sights of Paris, such as the Eiffel tower or Notre Dame cathedral, are so iconic that even people who have never visited France are familiar with them. And yet, every time you see them they still take the breath away. In Paris recently for just a few days, we managed to pack in all the highlights and marvel anew at our favourite sights.

The grand boulevards of Paris, lined with magnificent buildings, are designed to awe visitors. No matter where you are you can always have a vantage point that offers a sweeping vista from which to appreciate the beauty of the city.

In spite of the monumental scale of the city, the true charms of Paris have to be appreciated at a much smaller scale. From the narrow cobbled streets echoing with history, to stores that sell kitchen equipment whose design does not appear to have changed in centuries, there is enough to keep you occupied for a lifetime of browsing.

One of my favourite stops is E. Dehillerin. Featured in one of Anthony Bourdain's TV shows, it is also where Julia Child used to shop. Oh, how easy it is to lose yourself for hours in the narrow aisles stuffed with every imaginable cookware you could possibly desire!

Paris food markets are like no other in the world, overflowing with an astonishing range of produce, cheeses, baked goods and meats. We made our way to Rue Mouffetard early on a Sunday morning for some breakfast and shopping.
Not only is there a buzzing flea market happening on this long, winding and lively street, there are also produce stalls, fresh seafood, baked goods and many, many varieties of cheese. Wind your way around groups of chatty locals, admire street performers, soak in the ambiance and grab some foodie souvenirs to bring back home!

Paris was where café culture was invented, and it is still where much of the life of the city still unfolds. Books were written, philosophies discussed, conspiracies hatched and revolutions planned on these café tables. Just sipping a cup of coffee at one of these tables will give you a thrill of connection with famous personalities gone by!

The food we ate in Paris was always spectacular. Trying out traditional French dishes such as Pâté en Croûte, Terrine and Croque-Monsieur, while sitting at a table outside and watching the world go by, just made it so much more memorable!

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The ultimate French bistro food, Croque-Monsieur is easy to make, perfect for brunch and loved by everybody! Pair it with French Onion Soup for that ultimate bistro experience!


2 tbsp butter

2 tbsp all purpose flour

1 cup warm milk

1-1/2 cups grated Gruyère cheese

Salt to taste

1/4 tsp each: ground black pepper, herbes de Provence, smoked paprika, ground nutmeg

1/2 tsp prepared grainy or Dijon mustard

8 slices country style bread, about 1/2 inch thick each

8 slices ham

Preheat oven to 400F. Line a baking tray with parchment.

Melt butter in skillet set over medium heat. Add flour, stir until incorporated, about 30-45 sec. Add milk, whisking until smooth and slightly thickened, about 30-45 sec. Add 1/2 cup grated cheese and stir until melted and smooth, another 30 sec.

Remove skillet from heat and mix in salt, pepper, herbes de Provence, paprika, nutmeg and mustard. Set aside. béchamel cheese sauce will thicken further as it cools.

Toast bread lightly. Place 4 slices of toasted bread on work surface. Spread 1 heaping tbsp of the béchamel cheese sauce evenly over each slice. Layer 2 of the ham slices over top of each slice of bread. Sprinkle 1/2 cup cheese evenly over ham on all the slices. Top with remaining 4 slices of toasted bread. Press down gently to hold filling.

Spread another 1 heaping tbsp of the béchamel cheese sauce evenly over bread, then sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup cheese over each slice.

Carefully place sandwiches on parchment lined baking tray. Bake for 10 min or until cheese is melted and tops are lightly browned. If desired, brown tops under broiler for 1 min.

Slice sandwiches in half and serve warm.

Serves four

French Onion Soup In Montmartre, Paris

Monmartre embodies the most romantic side of Paris. From the stark beauty of the Sacré Coeur basilica to the cobbled streets that wind through the neighbourhood and the lively bars and cafés on every corner, it is easy to see why generations of artists came here to work, carouse, and create La Vie Bohème! Picasso, Degas, van Gogh, Matisse, and many others lived here, experimented with new styles and in the process invented modern art.

It is still possible to see glimpses of the windmills and vineyards that formed part of the original village of Montmartre, but it has become too popular a place for many rustic charms to survive. So many films have been made with Montmartre as a backdrop that it is well known around the world, attracting thousands of tourists every year.

However, when you walk through one of its narrow alleys late at night after the crowds have gone home, you can still imagine what it was like a century ago. The steep, narrow, atmospheric streets and the lovely, gracious buildings lining them evoke a sense of days gone by.

In spite of the popular image of Monmartre artists and their models starving in freezing attics, reinforced by countless songs, books and movies, one can eat very well there. Cafes, bistros and bars set up impromptu seating on footpaths, street corners and squares. The sounds of laughter, conversation and the clinking of cutlery mingle with inviting aromas wafting around.

Although we ate in many a brasserie, Cafe Wepler was one of the most memorable. For over a hundred years Wepler has been the hangout of choice for artists, writers and famous personalities and it is still impressive with it's food, furnishings and art. My favourite bistro dish, and one that I invariably ordered everywhere, is French onion soup. I just love how it's warm, comforting flavours fill me up with contentment!

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You too can create that Paris bistro feeling with this easy, satisfying recipe. The secret to deep, rich flavour is in the sautéing of onions. They have to be done long and slow to develop that characteristic sweetness, colour and aroma of this soup.
For a delicious and unusual variation, try French Onion Soup with Lamb, or another Paris bistro classic - Croque Monsieur.

French Onion Soup

2 tbsp each: unsalted butter, olive oil

1 large sprig of thyme

2 large onions (such as Vidalia or Spanish), halved and thinly sliced, about 4 cups

1/2 tsp sugar

1 tbsp all purpose flour

1 cup dry white wine

900 ml broth, chicken or beef

Salt to taste

1/4 tsp each: ground black pepper, smoked paprika

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

4 thick slices of baguette

4 slices Gruyere cheese

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish, optional

Warm butter and oil in deep heavy skillet set over medium heat.

Add thyme and onions. Sauté, stirring occasionally until all the liquid is cooked off and onions are lightly browned, about 30 min.

Add sugar; continue to stir and sauté onions until they are a deeper brown, about 15 more min.

Add flour, cook 1 min.

Add wine and cook for 1 min until it bubbles, scraping up the burnt brown bits sticking to the bottom of the pan.

Add broth, salt, pepper, paprika and vinegar, stirring well to incorporate.

Bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat to low. Cook for 1 hour until onions are very soft and soup is slightly thickened. Remove thyme sprig.

Ladle soup into 4 individual oven proof bowls. Preheat broiler in oven.

Toast baguette slices lightly and top each bowl with a slice. Lay the sliced cheese over top. Place all the bowls on a large oven safe tray.

Place tray with soup bowls about 8 inches away from broiler and broil until cheese melts and browns lightly, about 1-2 min. Sprinkle parsley over top, if using.

Serves four



Espresso Cardamom Brownies In Ottawa, Canada

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To be in Ottawa on the eve of Canada's 150th birthday is to be granted a rare and special opportunity. Preparations for the event were well underway when we visited and the nation's capital was gearing up to host a giant party to mark the day.

We walked around lovely Parliament Hill where booths, tents and a massive stage were set up. Speeches, tributes, music, fireworks and a visit from Prince Charles and Camilla added to the excitement in the air that even rainy weather couldn't dampen!

Parliament Hill is both the heart of the city of Ottawa and also the location in which some of the greatest moments of Canada's history have been enacted. With beautiful Gothic style buildings overlooking the Ottawa river, it offers spectacular views and is easily the best place to start your tour of charming Ottawa.

Ottawa was selected as the nation's capital because of its location at the meeting point of Quebec and Ontario. Its unique blend of French and English cultures is reflected in its cuisine as well, ensuring that great food abounds in the city! We enjoyed flaky croissants, garlicky escargot, meats simmered in rich red wines and amazing fresh seafood from nearby lakes.

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This grown up version of a childhood favourite comes with a hit of espresso strong enough to make you sit up and take notice. The fudgy center pieces with the molten core and hint of cardamom are the ones everyone fights over; enjoy with a mug of milk or more espresso!
For more recipes using cardamom, read A Craving For Cardamom.

Espresso Cardamom Brownies

4 squares (4 oz) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
¾ cup (1 ½ stick) butter
1-1/2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
1-1/4 cups flour
2 tbsp instant espresso powder
1 tsp finely ground cardamom

Heat oven to 350ºF. Line an 8X8 inch baking pan with foil, spray with cooking spray.
Microwave chocolate and butter in large microwaveable bowl on medium 1-2 min or until butter is melted. Stir until chocolate is completely smooth.
Stir in 1 ½ cups sugar. Add 4 eggs and vanilla; mix well. 
Stir in 1 1/4 cups flour, ground cardamom and espresso powder.
Spread into foil lined pan.
Bake for about 23 min or until toothpick inserted in center comes out with fudgy crumbs (do not overbake). Store leftover brownies in refrigerator and warm gently in microwave for 10-15 sec, before serving.

Makes 16 Servings

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