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Beef Goulash In Prague

Prague is breathtaking. This glittering city is picture postcard perfect in every way. From the historic Charles bridge that leads the way to the city's medieval Old Town core, to grand views of the Vltava River, from narrow cobbled lanes lined with pubs and restaurants, to steep stairs leading up, up, up to heaven, from tall church spires dotting the skyline to sprawling castle complexes, this city has it all, including some really good food!  

One of the very touristy things to do in Prague is to stand around in front of the famous Astronomical Clock and admire the moving statues which pop out every hour. Tourists have been engaging in this activity since 1410 when the clock was first built, and so did we!

When we set out to explore Prague's old world charm, we quickly realized that  it would involve a lot of walking up and down Prague's famous sloping streets......

And climbing a lot of steps!

Luckily we often came upon hidden little nooks with pubs and cafés within, to rest our aching feet and sample delightful little cakes and pastries. One memorable discovery was a pub restaurant in the basement of a monastary, run entirely by monks. They made the beer in house and created fabulous dishes cooked with beer. Our favourites were the house smoked meats and beer braised goulash, all washed down with more of their excellent beer.

If you happen to be in Prague around Easter, like we were, you can stroll through the bustling Easter market held in the Old Town Square. Part food fair, part souvenirs and kitschy handicraft stalls, it is great fun to explore.

 And if you are lucky, you will catch the action on stage where dancers in traditional costume, along with singers and musicians entertain the crowds with live performances.

Make sure to sample some of the traditional fare on offer such as fire roasted doughnuts, spit roasted ham, grilled sausages, crepes, local beer and so much more. One of my favourites were the fire roasted doughnuts called Trdelník. Generously basted with butter as they rotate and cook over an open fire to a golden crust, they are given a final dusting of cinnamon, sugar and finely chopped nuts, making them completely irresistible. We couldn't stop eating them! 

One of the foods you will come across everywhere in Prague is goulash. A rich, slow simmered stew, it is generally made with beef, paprika and onions, with a bit of beer or wine sometimes added in for depth. Originally from Hungary, it is said to have been created by the Gulyás, the cow herdsmen who cooked up a rustic version in a large cauldron set over an open fire. The ingredients that they had at hand - wild onions, herbs and beef are still the basis for this age old stew, that is now popular all over Eastern Europe and beyond.

Goulash being one of the best known and best loved of all Czech dishes, we wanted to try lots of it in Prague! It seemed that everywhere we tasted it, the chef had his own interpretation of how to cook it. Sometimes it came simmered in a rich, dark beer based sauce, other times it was thin, soupy and not as flavourful.  

Czech goulash almost always never has any vegetables in it, focusing instead on the rich, meaty taste of beef, generally washed down with large tankards of local beer. 

Goulash is usually served with bread dumplings called Knedlíky, the perfect sponge for sopping up the delicious sauce!  

Bacon is key in this recipe, adding subtle smoky notes to the finished dish. You can add vegetables such as potatoes, carrots or sweet peppers to the goulash to make it more hearty and filling. I sometimes pair it with crusty bread, although the traditional way of course, is to have sliced bread dumplings with it.

Beef Goulash 

2 tbsp butter

2 medium cooking onions, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2 slices bacon, chopped

Few sprigs of fresh thyme

1 bay leaf, preferably fresh

2 lb boneless stewing beef, cut into bite sized pieces

1 tbsp all purpose flour

1 cup each: red wine, beef broth

Salt to taste

1 tsp each: toasted & ground caraway seeds (or cumin), smoked hot Spanish paprika, sweet Hungarian paprika, marjoram (or oregano), sugar

1 cup canned premium whole plum tomatoes with puree (about 6), crushed lightly 

2 tbsp each, finely chopped: fresh parsley, onion

Melt butter in deep heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, bacon, thyme and bay leaf. Saute 10 min until bacon is cooked down and onions are softened. 

Add beef cubes and brown them lightly for about 5 min. Add flour and cook 1 min. Deglaze pan with wine. Cook 2 min until it starts to bubble, then add broth, salt, all the spices and sugar. Cook 1 min, then add tomatoes. Stir to mix, cover saucepan, and bring contents to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to low and cook for 2 hours until beef is very tender and sauce has thickened a bit, stirring occasionally.

Transfer to serving bowl, garnish with parsley and onion and serve.

Serves four

Pulled Chicken Tacos In Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Generations of college students celebrating spring break have made Fort Lauderdale famous, but no matter what time of the year you visit, the beach stretches out endlessly, the startlingly blue skies sparkle, and the warm water of the ocean invites you to dive right in. This is where the Florida of tourist dreams becomes reality! 

Finding the beach is never difficult in Fort Lauderdale since much of the city stretches out along the shore.  Hotels cluster along the waterfront, so that you only have to walk a few yards to get to the sand. Sitting on the beach in the evening, you can see a procession of ocean liners pulling out from the cruiseport, which is a favourite departure point for cruises leaving for the Caribbean and Mexico. 

Fort Lauderdale is criss-crossed by inland canals that also serve as a highway. The yellow water taxis that ply the waterways are a very convenient, and certainly the most fun, way to get around. Many of the locals have their own boats and the waterfront bars and restaurants make it convenient to  pull right up to them and drop anchor. It certainly beats trying to find a spot in the parking lot! 

During our stay in Fort Lauderdale, we spent many a pleasant evening sitting out on the deck of these waterfront restaurants, watching the boats pull up, while enjoying the freshest seafood imaginable, under the twinkling night sky. You can really taste the freshness of the seafood when it is lightly steamed and served with melted butter and a zesty seafood sauce with a hint of horseradish, to dunk it in. We also enjoyed it lightly battered and deep fried until crisp, with the seafood still moist and juicy inside. No matter how you eat it, seafood just tastes better in Fort Lauderdale!

One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to The Floridian Diner for breakfast. This well known institution has been in business since 1937 and has catered to many, many celebrities, whose pictures still grace the walls. It has also been featured on Rachel Ray's TV show and is a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. 

We also got to eat fantastic Mexican food in the city. While shrimp tacos were the norm everywhere, it was the pulled chicken tacos that got us hooked! Simmered for a long time in a rich and spicy tomato based sauce, they were tender and delicious!

Really easy to make, the ingredients for the pulled chicken can be thrown together in a pot and left to simmer gently while you relax and inhale the savoury aromas wafting from the stove. Hearty, filling and comforting with the bright colours and fresh flavours of the crunchy vegetables, these tacos are perfect for any season or any night of the week!

Piled High Pulled Chicken Tacos

You can use beef or lamb in place of the chicken and add a dollop of sour cream as well! For a change of pace, serve pulled chicken and toppings on a bed of rice or in a lettuce wrap.

2 tbsp oil

1 each, finely chopped: medium onion, sweet red pepper

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

6 large boneless skinless chicken thighs (about 1 1/4 lb)

4 large canned plum tomatoes with puree (juices)

1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, chopped

1/4 cup water

Salt to taste

1/2 tsp each: ground cumin, smoked paprika, Mexican chilli powder or cayenne pepper, oregano

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

The juice of half a lemon

8 whole wheat or corn tortillas

Additional toppings such as chopped avocados, tomatoes, red onions, red cabbage, lettuce, guacamole and shredded cheese

Warm oil in deep skillet over medium high heat. Add onions, sweet peppers and garlic. Saute for about 5 min until onions are lightly browned and softened.

Add chicken and brown again for 5 min. Add tomatoes, chipotle pepper, water, salt and spices. Stir to mix, cover skillet and cook on low heat for 1 hour until chicken is very tender. Uncover skillet and cook for a further 10 minutes until chicken is falling apart. 

Remove chicken to bowl and continue cooking sauce until it is very thick, another 10 min. 

Shred chicken with two forks and add back to sauce in skillet. Fold in chopped coriander and lemon juice. Transfer to serving bowl.

Warm tortillas and place on table along with chicken and assorted toppings for people to assemble their own tacos. 

Serves four

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Cuban Shrimp Creole In Miami

Miami has been called the most northern of Latin American cities, and it is easy to understand why. Cruising along the beach with the azure sky sparkling overhead, the beat of salsa music pouring out of bars and cafes, and the lilt of Spanish conversations swirling all around, it is easy to imagine yourself on some exotic tropical island. 

Miami encompasses an amazing diversity of neighbourhoods. From the picture postcard views of South Beach, where the young and beautiful congregate, to the elegant boutiques of Coral Gables, the laid-back, bohemian streets of Coconut Grove, and the music pubs of Little Haiti, you are never at a loss of places to visit. And when you have had your fill of city excitement the Florida Everglades are only a short distance away, teeming with flamingos and alligators!

The one neighbourhood that every tourist must visit is Little Havana. Miami is home to a very large Cuban community and Calle Ocho is where they come to shop, eat, and celebrate every important occasion. A favourite place to eat is the Versailles restaurant, self proclaimed to be the "World's Most Famous Cuban Restaurant". On weekends,large family groups gather here to eat, gossip and linger over endless cups of Cuban coffee. The decor inside the restaurant is inspired by the palace it is named after, with wall-to wall mirrors, chandeliers, and lots of gold gilt. 

The food at Versailles restaurant is authentic, well prepared and delicious! We sampled a variety of their seafood and pork dishes, washed down with cups of strong Cuban espresso. Cuban cuisine is a pleasing mix of Spanish, French, African and Caribbean culinary influences. Simply cooked for a long time over low heat to let the flavours develop, it is lightly spiced with cumin, oregano, garlic and pepper. 

Serve this delicious shrimp dish with diced avocados tossed with lemon juice, fresh parsley and red onions as well as black bean rice on the side.

Shrimp Creole

2 tbsp each: oil, butter

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1/2 each, red and green sweet bell peppers, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/4 cp finely chopped fresh coriander or parsley

1/2 tsp each: ground cumin, oregano

1/2 tsp each: cayenne pepper, ground black pepper

Salt to taste

1/4 cup each: white wine, water

2 cups (about 8 large) canned plum tomatoes with juices, pureed

1 lb shelled and deveined raw shrimp

Warm oil and butter together in deep skillet set over medium heat. Add onions, peppers and garlic. Sauté, stirring occasionally for about 8-10 min until onions are softened and lightly browned.

Add fresh coriander or parsley, all the spices and salt. Cook for 1 min. Add wine and simmer for 2 min to reduce. Add water and tomatoes, cover and bring contents of skillet to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to low and cook for 10 min until sauce is slightly thickened.

Add shrimp, stir to mix, cover skillet and cook for 6-8 min or until shrimp are just done and pink. Do not overcook.

Garnish with additional fresh coriander or parsley if desired. 

Serves four

 

Key Lime Pie In Key West, Florida

When you visit Key West, you will feel transported to a different era where everything moves slowly and sitting in the shade sipping a fruity drink seems like a productive way to spend an afternoon.
Key West is the southernmost city in the continental United States, as tourists are reminded by a marker that indicates the exact spot where you have travelled as far south as possible. The town certainly feels tropical and locals, known as Conchs (pronounced "Conks") treasure the leisurely lifestyle of the islands, which seems a million miles away from the hustle of the big Florida cities to the north.

Ernest Hemingway lived in Key West for many years in the 1920s and 30s, nurturing his passion for deep sea fishing while working on many of his most famous books. The Hemingway house has become a major tourist attraction and is preserved as it was when he lived there. Hemingway was a cat-lover, and the house is still occupied by the progeny of his original pet "Snowball", fed and cared for by the estate. As you walk through the house, cats sprawled luxuriously on the bed or couch will lift their heads to give you a supercilious look, annoyed at being disturbed.

Key West is also famous for its feral chickens. Descendants of birds that escaped from farms centuries ago they now overrun the streets of the city, protected by laws that prevent anyone from catching them.Tourists find them charming, many residents less so. If you are sleeping in late after a long night of partying, a chorus of crowing roosters may not be the most welcome wake-up call!

Duval Street, which cuts across downtown Key West is the heart of the entertainment district. There you will find Sloppy Joe's, which was Hemingway's favourite drinking spot, and also the World's Smallest Bar, with room for just two customers. This street is lined with cafes, restaurants, bars and shops and is great fun to explore.
Restaurants in Key West take pride in featuring it's unique cuisine - lots of fresh local seafood cooked with Cuban, Caribbean and American influences. Conch chowder, conch fritters, pink shrimp, lobster and stone crab are all delicacies you must try at least once when in Key West.

We ate at the Blue Heaven restaurant, well known for its delicious, inspired cuisine and casual, laid back ambiance. The lobster roll, black beans and rice with blackened fish and the warm, moist corn bread were fantastic but we had heard so much about it's famous Key Lime pie, we made sure to leave room for that! Reputed to be the best on the island, it was sweet, tart, creamy and addictive, all at once!  

My easy to make mini pies are perfect for serving small individual portions. The hint of coconut and cardamom in the crust makes them especially irresistible. Don't be surprised if your guests want more!

You can make one large 9 inch pie in place of these mini portion sized ones if you wish. If you don't have a mini cheese cake pan, use a muffin pan instead. 

Mini Key Lime Pies

For Crust:

1 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs, such as Honey Maid brand

1/4 cup brown sugar

2 tbsp desiccated unsweetened coconut

2 tsp ground cardamom

1/4 cup melted butter

For Filling:

1 can (300ml) sweetened condensed milk

4 egg yolks

1/2 cup Key lime juice, bottled or fresh

1/2 cup fresh whipped cream

Preheat oven to 350F. Generously spray a 12 cup mini cheesecake pan with cooking spray.

Combine graham cracker crumbs, brown sugar, coconut, ground cardamom and butter in large bowl. Spoon about 1 tbsp of crumb mixture into each muffin cup, pressing down gently to compact. Bake in oven for 8 min. Remove from oven (leave oven on) and cool completely to room temperature, about 15 min.

Meanwhile, make the filling by beating egg yolks with condensed milk in deep bowl. Add lime juice and beat again until well combined. Pour equally onto baked crusts in pan. Bake for about 18-20 min or until tops are very lightly brown and cake tester comes out almost clean. Do not over bake, it is OK for the centers to be slightly wobbly. They will set as pies cool.

Cool to room temperature, loosen edges of each mini pie with a knife, then cover pan with plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator for at least 3 hours. 

To serve, carefully remove each mini pie from pan and top with freshly whipped cream.

Makes 12 mini Key Lime pies

 

Spicy Fish In Cozumel, Mexico

When I stepped onto the shores of Cozumel I was probably as far from India as you can possibly get. But geographical distance does not necessarily imply the absence of any connections, as I discovered when I heard the fascinating legend of "La China Poblana". 

The story told across Mexico today is of a young woman in seventeenth century India named Meera who was kidnapped by Portuguese pirates near Cochin in Kerala. She was carried to the Philippines in 1619 where she was bought by a Spanish ship's captain and taken to his house in Puebla, Mexico. There Meera became a Catholic and took the name of  Catarina de San Juan. After the death of the captain, Meera supported herself as a seamstress, making colourful blouses and skirts inspired by designs from her native India. She began to see holy visions and was reputed to be able do miracles, becoming famous as La China (which, at that time in Mexico, meant any person from Asia), of Puebla. When she died at the age of 82, she was venerated as a saint and her grave in Puebla became a pilgrimage site. Meera's colourful dresses are now considered Mexico's national dress and still referred to as China Poblana. 

 

 

Mexico took Meera's sense of style to heart and in return it transformed the food of India by introducing chillies to the cuisine. Puebla is also famous as the place where mole poblano was created, a dish that combines two of Mexico's greatest gifts to the cuisines of the world: chillies and chocolate.

Spices form another great link between East and West. When Columbus set sail he had no idea that he was going to discover a new continent, for he was in search of a route to Asia where he could buy spices, especially the famous pepper of Kerala. Instead he landed in the Caribbean where he discovered a new plant - chilli peppers that were as yet unknown outside the American continent, but which in subsequent years, Spanish and Portuguese traders carried around the world. 

Chilli plants arrived in India only a few decades before Meera made her voyage and Indians took to them with gusto. Indian food was never the same once cooks discovered that a pinch of cayenne gave it an unforgettable bite! India gave Mexico La China Poblana and got back a whole new world of flavour in return. I would call it a fair exchange!

Many years of my childhood were spent in Cochin where I grew to love Kerala cuisine, imbued with the flavours of red chilies, black pepper, curry leaves and coconut. Kerala cuisine has many common elements with that of Mexican food such as the use of chillies, ground cumin, fresh coriander and coconut.

I like to think that this typical Kerala fish curry, rich with tomatoes and spices, especially chilies, is something Meera would have enjoyed in Cochin and perhaps created variations of in her new home in Mexico.  

Fish curries are generally made in a traditional earthenware pot also known as a Chatti, for the aroma and flavour it imparts to the dish. The fish is never stirred with a spoon. Instead, the chatti is gently shaken from side to side to ensure even cooking and to avoid breaking up the fish as it cooks.
The first marination of the fish in lemon juice helps get rid of some of its strong aroma while the second marination adds to its flavour. Adding coconut milk right in the end helps mellow the heat, while adding creaminess to the sauce. Serve it with Coconut rice for a nice balance of flavours.

Kerala Fish Curry

1 1/4 lb skinless Halibut fillet, cut into 2 inch pieces

1 tbsp lemon juice

1/2 tsp each: salt, turmeric

A small piece of tamarind, about the size of a large marble

1/2 cup hot water

1 tsp each, divided:  ground coriander, ground cumin, dried fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi)

1/2 tsp each, divided: cayenne pepper, mustard powder, ground ginger, garam masala

2 tbsp oil

6 cloves garlic, smashed

20 fresh curry leaves

1/4 tsp black mustard seeds

1 cup (about 6) canned whole plum tomatoes, pureed

1/2 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk

2 tbsp each: chopped fresh coriander, chopped fresh curry leaves

Place fish in large mixing bowl. Add lemon juice, salt and turmeric. Marinate at room temperature for 15 min.

Meanwhile, soak tamarind in hot water for 15 min. Mash it occasionally to soften.

Drain fish, pat dry with paper towels and transfer to clean bowl. Add 1/2 tsp each of ground coriander, ground cumin, dried fenugreek leaves and 1/4 tsp each of cayenne pepper, mustard powder, ground ginger and garam masala. Toss well to coat fish with spices and marinate at room temperature for 15 min.

Strain tamarind through a fine sieve and reserve extract, discarding the fibrous residue left in the sieve.

Warm oil in deep skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, curry leaves and mustard seeds. Saute for 1 min until seeds begin to pop and garlic turns lightly golden. Add pureed tomatoes, tamarind extract and remainder of the spices. Stir to mix, cover skillet and cook on low heat for 5-7 min.

Add marinated fish and coat gently with the sauce. Cover skillet again and cook for about 10 min on low heat until fish is cooked through, shaking skillet occasionally for even cooking. Fold in coconut milk and cook uncovered for another 4-5 min until mixture starts bubbling, shaking skillet occasionally. Fold in chopped fresh coriander and curry leaves.

Serves four

 

Samosas In Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

At the heart of old Delhi lies the Red Fort (Lal Quila), built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century as the seat of power from which he ruled India.

Directly in front of the fort is Chandni Chowk, originally designed to be a grand marketplace surrounded by the mansions of his nobles. When the emperor rode through the square in a royal procession, his path would be covered with silken carpets on which rose petals were scattered. The pool in the centre of the square reflected the silver glint of  moonlight, chandni in Hindi, which is said to have given the area its name.

Today when you walk through the congested streets of Chandni Chowk, dodging traffic while inhaling the aromas of countless food stalls, it is hard to remember that the Mughals designed the boulevards to be wide enough to parade their elephants through! But the crowds are there for a reason, for this is still where the best jewellery, the best fabrics and the best food in Delhi are to be found, in shops that have been owned by the same family for generations.

Chandni Chowk is home to a most eclectic collection of vendors. Here you will find sumptuous jewellery stores in front of which vegetable sellers display their wares and opulent shops selling the finest fabrics and clothing next to an old woman spreading out sacks of freshly ground spices on the pavement!

There is so much to experience and savour in Chandni Chowk that eating your fill in just one restaurant would be a grievous mistake. The market is legendary for its samosas, kachoris (deep fried puffy stuffed bread), chaat (small plates of spicy street food), parathas (pan fried stuffed flat bread) and mithai (Indian style sweets) and it is great fun to sample the specialty of each stall as you meander through the little lanes that surround the main square.

Some of the best discoveries are made through serendipity. When our car got stuck in traffic, the driver suggested that it would be faster to get out and walk. We descended right in front of a line of customers waiting in front of a tiny stall selling samosas and jalebis (an Indian sweet). Seeing the impressive array of fresh, hot food, and the many framed accolades from travel magazines and websites, we also joined the end of the line and were soon sampling everything on the menu!

The samosas were lifted straight out of the kadhai (wok), the pastry flaky and crisp, the stuffing of plump, spicy green peas moist and flavourful. The jalebis that followed were still warm and syrupy - just perfect to douse the chilies of the samosas!

Working our way down narrow alleys we saw a haze of smoke rising and scented  the unmistakable smell of parathas being fried. It was the famous Parathewali Gali - a street that dates back to the 18th century and consists exclusively of stalls that make parathas of every description. We were soon seated at one of the communal tables with a huge plate of parathas, chutneys and vegetable curries in front of us. Lucky for us, we had left room for just such an eventuality! The meal certainly lived up to its reputation, the parathas being some of the finest we have ever had.

If eating all the deep fried samosas, jalebis and parathas leaves you thirsty, you can indulge in a special treat of lassi. Made with sweetened yogurt and served in an earthenware cup, which adds it's own unique aroma to the lassi, this is a rich, satisfying end to a food journey spanning centuries of history and tradition.

Taking a line from the famous samosas of Chandni Chowk, I too have veered away from the standard, ubiquitous potato stuffing, using Alu Gobhi (cauliflower and potatoes) instead. The delicate, earthy flavour of the cauliflower comes through in every bite, enhanced by the spices. The stuffing can also be eaten as a side dish with naan if desired.


If you love Alu Gobhi, that old favourite from Indian restaurant menus, you will love this unusual take on samosas. They will satisfy your craving for Alu Gobhi and samosas at the same time! Surprisingly easy to make using store bought puff pastry, they have the added bonus of being baked and not fried. So you can have more than one without feeling guilty.

Alu Gobhi Samosas

For the stuffing:
1 small cauliflower
1 medium potato, peeled and diced small
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 inch piece of ginger, minced or finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced or finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
Salt to taste
1 tsp each: ground coriander, ground cumin, garam masala
1/2 tsp each: cayenne pepper, turmeric
1 tbsp each: dried fenugreek leaves, lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

Cut cauliflower into small florets (about 2 cups). Bring large pot of water to boil, add potato and cauliflower. Boil until tender, drain and cool. Mash potato and cauliflower lightly with a fork.
Heat oil in skillet over medium high heat and add cumin seeds. After a few seconds, add the ginger, garlic and onions. Sauté for about 5 minutes, until the onions are lightly browned. Add all the spices and the salt. Stir for a minute, then add the cauliflower and potatoes. Mix well with the spices in the pan, mashing lightly with back of stirring spoon. Cook 5 min. Mix in the lemon juice and fresh coriander. Set this mixture aside to cool.

For the pastry shell:
1 package frozen puff pastry sheets
1 egg, beaten

Thaw the puff pastry until it is easy to unroll. Preheat the oven to 400F. Line a baking sheet with parchment.
Working with one sheet at a time, cut into 3 strips and cut each strip into 3 or 4 squares. Put a heaping tablespoon of the cauliflower-potato mixture in the center of a square. Fold the flap over the filling to form a triangular pouch and seal the edges by pressing on them with a fork or with your fingers. Proceed similarly with the remaining puff pastry and place all the samosas in a single layer on baking sheet. Brush samosas lightly with the beaten egg. Bake for about 15-18 minutes, until the pastry is cooked through the tops are golden. Serve with chutney.
Serves four – six

Rara Chicken Curry In New Delhi, India

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Delhi, to me, has a nostalgic charm all its own. It is the city in which I spent much of my childhood, and returning there always feels like homecoming to me. I only have to step out of the airplane for the memories to come flooding back - the cacophony of traffic, the calls of street vendors, the sight of old buildings bearing so much history, the neighborhoods where I lived and went to school  - it feels like I never left.

Delhi is one of the oldest cities in the world. Archaeological excavations reveal one layer built upon another for so many centuries that once you reach the oldest strata it is difficult to  separate history from mythology. Hindus, Rajputs,Turks, Afghans, Mughals, British - all have left their indelible stamp on the fabric of this city.

The most prominent of their monuments: Qutub Minar, Red Fort, Purana Qila, are still landmarks that define Delhi. Walk through any one of them and you will step back into history to a time when mighty emperors strolled in the gardens and fabulously dressed, bejeweled princesses lived in these palaces.

 

The cuisine of Delhi is another way to discover its history. The flavours, cooking techniques and spicing of the dishes reflect the many influences that have shaped the city. It blends the royal cuisine of its longtime Mughal rulers with the hearty fare of Punjab that lies just to the north of the city. The richly spiced, meat based dishes known the world over, such as kormas, biryanis, kababs and curries were perfected many centuries ago in the palace kitchens of Delhi, giving the city its own unique flavour.

 To fully enjoy Delhi's cuisine you have to step out of the restaurants and experience the feast that awaits you in every street. These street vendors have a loyal following and are proud of their secret recipes, handed down generations in their families. You will literally find entire kitchens contained in small handcarts with stoves perched perilously on top.

 Here you can sample Delhi's justly famous chaat: small plates of Alu Tikki - shallow fried potato croquettes, stuffed with spicy peas, served with lashings of yogurt and tamarind chutney, Gol Guppas - tiny deep fried puffy shells made with flour, stuffed with potatoes, tamarind chutney, dipped in an incredibly addictive spicy cumin mint water, Chana Chaat - spicy chickpeas and fried potatoes cooked on a griddle till very thick, Dahi Baras - small deep fried lentil balls dipped in spiced yogurt - the list is endless, with a new food discovery just around the corner.

Another of Delhi's treasures are its Dhabas - small roadside eateries, often with little clay ovens known as tandoors, serving incredible food. The kababs, curries, dals and tandoori naan that you will eat here will rival those of any five star restaurant!

It was in one of these little dhabas that I first tasted Rara chicken curry. The flavours of charcoal roasted chicken, simmered for hours in a decadently rich sauce, scooped up in a garlicky butter naan were so good that I had to try out this recipe in my own kitchen.

Here is my easy version that will soon become one of your favourites too! The term Rara means dry. This is a fairly dry curry with boneless chunks of chicken, ground meat and crumbled paneer, all enveloped in a rich, thick sauce. Eat it with pieces of warm naan to scoop up the delicious flavours!

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If you want variety, you can make this curry with lamb instead of chicken. For a vegetarian version, substitute paneer.

Rara Chicken Curry

6 boneless skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of fat and cubed into bite sized pieces

4 tbsp oil, divided

1 tsp each, divided: ground coriander, ground cumin, garam masala, dried fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi)

1/2 tsp each, divided: cayenne pepper, turmeric

Salt to taste

1/4 tsp cumin seeds

1 medium onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 inch piece ginger, grated or minced

1-1/4 cup (about 8) canned whole plum tomatoes packed in puree

1/2 cup tomato puree from above can

1 cup ground chicken

1/2 cup grated or crumbled paneer

2 tbsp each, finely chopped: fresh coriander and mint

1 tbsp butter

Preheat oven to 420F. Line a baking tray with parchment.

Place chicken in large mixing bowl. Add 2 tbsp oil, 1/2 tsp ground coriander, ground cumin, garam masala, dried fenugreek leaves and 1/4 tsp of the cayenne pepper and turmeric as well as salt to taste. Mix well to coat chicken. Spread chicken evenly on baking tray and roast in the oven for 15 min. Transfer chicken and accumulated juices to a bowl. Reserve.

Warm remaining 2 tbsp oil in deep non stick skillet set over medium high heat. Add cumin seeds, let sizzle 30 sec. Add onions, garlic and ginger. Saute for about 5-7 min until they are lightly browned.

Reduce heat to medium, then add the tomatoes, remainder of the spices and some more salt to taste. Cook for 5-7 min or until mixture is slightly thickened, stirring occasionally and breaking up tomatoes with stirring spoon. Add tomato puree, mix well.

Add ground chicken and paneer. Cook for 5 min until mixture is partially cooked and thickened, stirring to break up lumps. Add reserved roast chicken and stir well to combine. Add 1/4 cup water and mix well. Cover skillet, reduce heat to low and cook for 30 min until chicken is cooked through and sauce has thickened. Fold in the fresh coriander, mint and butter.

Serves four

 


Tempura In Tokyo

Tokyo is a food-lover's paradise, with more Michelin starred restaurants than any other city in the world. Even if you do not dine at these rarefied heights, it is possible to eat very well without bankrupting yourself. From sushi restaurants to tempura, ramen, yakitori and little bento boxes sold at street corners, there is something to suit every budget and every taste.

Whether you eat in an upscale restaurant or a tiny sushi bar, you will find every dish made with the freshest ingredients, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. This  meticulous attention to detail is what makes eating in Japan such an  amazing experience.

One of the most interesting places to eat a quick, inexpensive lunch is in the food hall basements of Tokyo's many high end department stores. These places are huge and filled with a mind boggling array of stalls selling raw and prepared food.

It became obvious to us that people in Tokyo take  food very seriously when we wandered past a street corner with a huge chef looming majestically on one side and giant teacups adorning a building on the other side. We had reached the famous Kappabashi, a street that specializes in shops selling restaurant and kitchen supplies.

As we strolled down the street, we came across many stores selling anything and everything you could possibly want to equip your kitchen. There were kitchen supply stores, food stores, knife stores and even stores specializing in selling fake food replicas! How can anyone resist buying fake food?!

A short distance from Kappabashi we ate a truly memorable meal at an old, well known restaurant  called Sansado that specializes in tempura. There is always a long line of people waiting to get in, so by the time we were seated, we were quite hungry! Our meal consisted of many different kinds of tempura, some made with an assortment of vegetables and some with shrimp. Biting into the crisp, crunchy batter to the tender vegetables and shrimp inside was a sublime experience!

Tempura was introduced to Japan by seventeenth century Portuguese missionaries who traveled from their Indian colony in Goa. It is quite likely that they brought along with them Goan cooks who were used to cooking pakoras, the ever popular Indian snack. The name has Latin roots, where "tempora" refers to the period of Lent when Catholics gave up eating meat and had only fish or vegetables. Frying these in batter made Lent quite agreeable!

My tempura recipe returns to  its Indian origins by using chickpea flour in the batter, as is done in making pakoras. The chickpea flour imparts an earthy taste to the batter which is enhanced by the addition of cumin seeds. Egg yolk and baking powder ensure that the coating of batter remains crisp and does not absorb excess oil during deep frying.

Feel free to use an assortment of other vegetables such as sliced eggplant, okra, lotus root, sweet red pepper or whole hot green chillies, along with the cauliflower. Serve with mango or tamarind chutney.

Tempura

300gm cauliflower florets (about 3 cups ), cut into small bite sized pieces

1/2 cup each: all purpose flour, chickpea flour (besan)

Salt to taste

1/4 tsp each: baking powder, cumin seeds

1 egg yolk

3/4 cup cold water

2 cups oil for deep frying

Place cauliflower in large mixing bowl.

Combine all purpose flour, chickpea flour, salt, baking powder and cumin seeds in deep mixing bowl. Combine egg yolk and water in small bowl and and add to dry flour mixture. Mix gently until fairly smooth. Do not overmix.

Heat oil for deep frying in wok set over medium heat. Dip cauliflower pieces in batter and lower gently into hot oil. Do not over crowd the wok. Do this in batches. Fry cauliflower for about 5 min per side, turning once or until tender and golden. Drain on paper towels. Proceed similarly with remaining cauliflower.

Serves four

Yakitori In Kyoto

Kyoto is a city of shrines. This is hard to believe at first if you arrive by  train, as we did. Emerging into the enormous, futuristic train station with an escalator that literally seems to climb into the sky, you'd never believe that Kyoto is so deeply rooted in history, culture, tradition and cuisine.

After you spend a few days in the city and start to discover its secrets, both cultural and culinary, you begin to appreciate all that it has to offer. From ancient mountain top temples built on wooden stilts to shrines dedicated to love gods, from gorgeous palaces with perfectly maintained grounds, to ancient Zen gardens, Kyoto has something to keep everyone happy. 

And if history and architecture is not your thing, there is a lively waterfront with plenty of restaurants overlooking it, Geisha clubs and great shopping to keep you busy!

We had heard so much about the distinctive Kyoto cuisine that one of the first things we did was to sample Kyoto's Kaiseki cuisine. Sort of like a chef's tasting menu, it features the creativity of the chef in the way he uses fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Also among our favourites were the yakitori restaurants we ate at. At one place we were seated right in front of the chefs, watching them prepare our food. It was almost like our own private cooking lesson. After that, I feel like I can create pretty authentic yakitori skewers!

We often had a set menu of many different types of yakitori skewers, some with pieces of chicken, some with ground meat. There were even grilled quail egg skewers and grilled hot chilli peppers which we had never come across before and found delicious.

My Yakitori recipe is influenced by my Indian palate and has ginger, green chili and fresh coriander in it. I think it just makes it even better! You can omit these if you want a more traditional flavour. Chicken thighs work best here as they are more flavourful and can be grilled without drying out. Serve them straight off the grill for best results.

Chicken Yakitori

 8 (1- 1/4 lb) boneless skinless chicken thighs

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 inch piece ginger, minced

1 green chili

1/4 cup each: soy sauce, Mirin, Sake (or white wine)

1 tbsp each: oil, sugar, chopped fresh coriander

6 green onions (scallions), white and pale green parts cut into 1 inch pieces

Trim fat off chicken thighs and cut them lengthwise into 3 strips. Place in deep mixing bowl. combine remaining ingredients, except green onions in mini blender or food processor and process to a smooth paste. Reserve and refrigerate half of marinade for basting and pour remaining half over chicken. Toss well to combine, cover and refrigerate chicken for 2 hours or longer.

When ready to grill, preheat grill to medium heat. Thread chicken pieces onto skewers, folding the meat and interspersing chicken pieces with a piece of green onion.

Grill for about 8 min per side until chicken is tender and cooked through, basting generously with the reserved marinade before turning skewers so that it forms a glaze on the chicken. Serve hot.

Serves four

Curried Pumpkin Sabzi In Ontario, Canada

Fall in Ontario is always breathtakingly beautiful. Cool crisp nights and warm sunny days encourage you to go explore forest trails, where you can walk for miles surrounded by trees whose leaves display the entire palette of colours, from brilliant reds and oranges to pale yellows and greens.

Driving around back country roads, stopping occasionally to buy fresh fruits and vegetables straight from farm stands and picnicking by a stream or waterfall is my favourite way to enjoy a beautiful fall day. Hiking in the many gorgeous conservation areas around Ontario, trampling on crunchy fallen leaves, admiring the tapestry of changing colours from a peak, while the dappled sunlight shines through the trees is another favourite!

Sun ripened, farm fresh produce is a real luxury this time of year and I try to make the most of it by practically turning vegetarian! Pumpkins are one of my favourite harvest vegetables and I love to cook them with spices, the way my mother used to when I was growing up in India. Just passing a field filled with ripe pumpkins evoked so much nostalgia in me that we had to stop and buy a couple to bring home!

Curried pumpkin sabzi is a delicious sweet, sour, hot and spicy creation that is best made with fresh pumpkin and enjoyed with warm naan, chapati or deep fried puris!

Curried Pumpkin Sabzi

2 lb fresh ripe pumpkin

2tbsp each: vegetable oil, butter

2 dried whole red chilies

1/4 tsp each: cumin seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds

A tiny pinch of asafoetida (Hing), optional

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 tsp each: cayenne pepper, turmeric, ground coriander, ground fennel, garam masala, dried fenugreek leaves (Kasoori methi)

Salt to taste

1 tbsp brown sugar

1 tsp amchoor (dried mango powder) or lemon juice

2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

Cut pumpkin into quarters, remove and discard peel and seeds. Dice pumpkin into small 1 inch bite sized pieces. you should have about 5 loosely packed cups (750gm) diced pumpkin to cook with.

Warm oil and butter in deep non stick skillet over medium high heat. Add red chilies, cumin, fennel and fenugreek seeds. Let sizzle for 30 sec, then add asafoetida, if using.

Add onions and garlic, saute for about 5-7 min until softened. Add diced pumpkin, cayenne, turmeric, ground coriander, ground fennel, garam masala, dried fenugreek leaves and salt. Mix well, cover skillet, reduce heat to medium low and cook for about 20 min or until pumpkin is tender.

Add sugar, amchoor (mango powder) or lemon juice. Cook, covered for another 10 min, stirring occasionally. Uncover skillet, turn up the heat to medium and cook off some of the excess sauce for about 2 min. Fold in the fresh coriander.

Serves four