Grilled Chicken Sosaties In Kruger National park, South Africa

The lioness seemed to emerge from nowhere. Her colour blended so well with the undergrowth that she was practically invisible until she suddenly stood up and walked past the open jeep in which we and our fellow tourists were seated. For a few breathless seconds she was so close we could have reached out and stroked her head. Fortunately, she ignored us as she eyed a much more tempting target - a herd of impala grazing nearby that scattered in panic as soon as they spotted her. Disappointed, she stalked off into the wilderness, looking for an easier meal.

We had long wanted to do a wild game safari, and our trip to South Africa was a wonderful opportunity to visit Kruger National Park. This is a huge expanse of wilderness, 360 km long, where we stayed in a safari lodge. Guides took us out for safaris at dawn and sunset, when animals are most active, to watch the wildlife. They made no guarantees of what we would see, but they are skilled trackers and over a few days they showed us sights that were a joy and wonder to behold.

We travelled in open vehicles that seat at most eight people, and appear rather defenceless against a determined lion or rhino. Happily, wild animals have grown accustomed to these machines that are harmless but too big to be prey, and pay them no attention. Even a trembling zebra foal did not think it necessary to flee as we approached, though it nuzzled closer to its mother.

A herd of elephants worked its way past us, systematically stripping foliage from trees. They love the fruit of Marula trees and butt the tree trunks with their heads to make fruit drop to the ground. They also rip off branches and bark and eat them with gusto. An elephant herd leaves such a swath of destruction in its wake that you can see why they need a lot of space.

The ground reverberated as a group of rhinos rolled playfully in a mud hole, scratching their backs on the ground. They looked like some strange primordial beasts, festooned with ox pecker birds that feed on ticks and insects living on their skin. It is a nice exchange - a steady supply of food in return for cleaning services.

We drove through a huge herd of Cape buffalo - suddenly we were surrounded by hundreds of them. Their lowing was oddly familiar since it sounded a lot like the noise of water buffaloes that are a common sight in India. But there was nothing domesticated about these beasts. They are very dangerous animals with massive, razor sharp horns that join on the tops of their heads to form huge crowns. Even the playful jousting of young bulls brings their heads crashing together with brutal force.

A family of giraffes walked past, the youngest a newborn. A baby giraffe stands about 8 feet tall and can keep up quite well with the rest of the family, even though its gait is rather ungainly. The mother and three children wandered off into the bush, without sparing us a glance.

Umkumbe Safari Lodge, where we were staying is a collection of comfortable, rustic lodges built along the banks of the Sands River, with a large viewing deck overlooking the water. Sitting here in the afternoons under shady umbrellas, we got to see an amazing array of wildlife: elephants cavorting in the cool water, impalas and antelopes getting a drink, a hyena slinking past, Cape buffalo and rhinos bathing in the river and even an elusive leopard doing the rounds. In the early hours of dawn and at dusk, our knowledgeable and exceptional guide Yuri along with his trusty tracker Forward, would take us on long game drives in an open jeep where we got to see more wildlife. It was a once in a lifetime experience!

After the thrilling game drives of our safari, it was nice to gather around the fire and relax over dinner at the lodge. The food was always excellent with many traditional South African dishes such as Bobotie, Boereswors sausages, Biltong and Malva Cake to tempt us. Grilled chicken skewers called Sosaties were one of my favourites and I loved the melding of different flavours. A traditional South African Braii is similar to a barbecue and an experience not to be missed!

Chicken Sosaties are a Cape Malay dish popular all over South Africa. The word Sosatie is a combination of Saus (Afrikaans for spicy sauce) and Sate (Malay for skewered meat). The sweet, sour and spicy flavours of the smoky chicken combined with caramelized grilled apricots and vegetables are incredibly addictive! If desired, you can also roast the chicken in the oven. Leftovers are wonderful in a wrap!

Grilled Chicken Sosaties

1 1/2 lb boneless chicken breast

2 tbsp oil

1 onion, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 inch piece ginger, grated or finely chopped

2 tsp curry powder, preferably hot

Or use 1/2 tsp each:
ground coriander, ground cumin, ground fennel, turmeric, cayenne pepper, garam masala and dried fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi)

Salt to taste

1/2 cup each: apricot jam, wine vinegar

12 - 15 dried apricots (optional)

1 mdm onion

1 sweet red pepper

Half a lemon for drizzling

Cut chicken breast into large bite sized pieces and place in a large mixing bowl.

Warm oil in a small skillet over mdm heat and add onions, garlic and ginger. Saute for about 5 min until softened and lightly browned.

Add curry powder (or ground spices), salt, apricot jam and vinegar. Stir to mix and cook until bubbling, about 1 min. Reserve and refrigerate 1/2 cup of the sauce for later use in the recipe.

Pour the remainder of the sauce over the chicken. Mix well to coat the pieces. Cover and refrigerate overnight for flavours to mingle.

About half an hour before grilling, soak dried apricots (if using) in hot water for 30 min. Drain and reserve.

Preheat outdoor grill to mdm.

Cut onion and red pepper into large 1 inch pieces.

Thread chicken onto skewers, interspersing them with onions, peppers and apricots. Drizzle any leftover marinade on top of skewers to keep chicken flavourful during grilling.

Grill chicken until almost cooked through, about 12 min, turning occasionally. Baste skewers generously with the reserved sauce and grill for another 2-3 min until they are tender and lightly golden, turning them over once or twice for even cooking.

Squeeze lemon juice over skewers and serve right away

Serves Four