Espresso Gelato In Verona, Italy
“In fair Verona, where we lay our scene…” wrote Shakespeare in the prologue to Romeo and Juliet. When you have the greatest English writer in history supplying you lines, you take them. As do the people of Verona, who have built a whole tourist industry around the play. Visitors to Verona can tour Juliet’s purported house, pose for pictures on her balcony, and taste the meals she would have eaten. We are all in favour of romance, but when we visited Verona we wanted to see the real city, which is a charming, perfectly preserved, medieval gem.
Of course, Verona existed long before Shakespeare decide to locate his story there. It was a major Roman city and the Ponte Pietra, an ancient stone bridge across the River Adige, was originally built by the Romans. We took a lovely stroll across the bridge, walking from the centre of the city to the opposite bank of the river.
On the other side of the river is the Castel San Pietro, a fortress built on top of a hill that looms over Verona. It was a steep climb to the top so we decided to take the funicular that carried us to the summit in a few minutes. The castle offers a panoramic view of the city, whose most prominent landmark is the tower of the Verona Cathedral.
We walked downhill from the castle, which was much easier than going up, and crossed the river again to wander into the maze of streets that make up much of Verona. It was easy to get lost in the little alleys, though the tower of the cathedral was always a landmark to guide us.
Most of the buildings in present day Verona date from the 13th and 14th centuries, when it was an independent city and an important player in the never-ending battles for domination among the various Italian factions. The ruling della Scala family poured the money they made from conquests into expanding and beautifying Verona, creating the city we enjoy today. In later years Venice came to control Verona, effectively freezing it in time with little new growth. Verona’s political misfortunes have left it a beautifully preserved medieval town that is today a UNESCO world heritage site.
We walked to the Piazza delle Erbe, which is a large square that is the heart of the city. It was traditionally the site of an open-air market, and today is lined with cafes and shops. One end of the square is occupied by the Palazzo Maffei, an old palace. In the centre of the square is the fountain known as the Madonna Verona, which is actually a fourth century Roman sculpture.
The sides of the plaza are lined with houses decorated with elaborate frescoes that once belonged to wealthy merchants. If Romeo and Juliet had been real, this plaza is where the clashes and sword fights that drive the tragedy would have occurred. Once you start thinking of Shakespeare in Verona, it is hard to stop imagining locations for scenes!
The most impressive of Verona’s buildings, though, has nothing to do with romance. It is the Arena, an enormous Roman amphitheatre that was once among the biggest in Italy, seating 25,000 spectators gathered to watch gladiatorial games. The interior seats are intact and are still used to hold open-air concerts.
The Castelvecchio is a medieval castle overlooking the river that was once the stronghold of the della Scala family, from where their armies battled the neighbouring cities of Milan and Venice. Today it is a museum that we visited, after which we walked the old battlements that offer a great view of the surrounding countryside.
Once you have soaked in the sights and scenes of Verona, walk into the popular Pasticceria Flego for some decadent pastry which they describe as the highest form of poetry. We can attest to that after trying a slice of their Sette Cieli made with seven types of chocolate! Indulge in espresso gelato from the many gelatarias dotting the streets (we did that a lot!) and be sure to eat in Osteria Da Ugo for exquisite hand crafted pasta, homemade sauces and old world charm.
Espresso Gelato was one of our favourite ways to revive ourselves after a hectic bout of sightseeing. Verona offered us perfect gelato that was rich and creamy and didn’t stint on the espresso. This easy recipe below recreates those delicious flavours and will immediately transport you to Italy! Best of all, you don’t need an ice cream machine to make it at home, just follow the directions given below and see for yourself how addictive this treat is.
Espresso Gelato
1 can (300 ml) sweetened condensed milk
1 can (370 ml) evaporated milk
1 cup whipping (heavy) cream
2 tbsp instant espresso granules
2 shots of freshly brewed strong espresso, about 1/3 cup
1/2 cup finely chopped chocolate or espresso chocolate bar
Combine condensed milk, evaporated milk and whipping cream in a mixing bowl. Mix well.
Blend together the instant espresso and hot espresso until dissolved.
(Note: If fresh brewed espresso is not available, just double the amount of instant espresso and dissolve it in 1/3 cup of hot water.)
Cover bowl and refrigerate overnight.
Churn gelato in an ice cream maker, following manufacturer's directions. Add the chopped chocolate towards the final few moments of churning to incorporate it into the gelato.
Cover gelato mixture tightly and freeze overnight.
(Note: You can also make gelato without an ice cream maker following the instructions below)
Remove from freezer, uncover and rest at room temperature for 1 hour or until gelato is starting to thaw and soften. Break up gelato into smaller pieces with a knife. Using a hand blender, blend gelato until it is smooth. Stir in the chopped chocolate right at the end, stirring to incorporate it into the gelato mixture.
Cover and freeze again for another 2 - 4 hours or longer.
Scoop into serving bowls and serve.
Serves six
