Cheese Fondue Bread Bowl In Gruyères, Switzerland
When we added Gruyères to our Swiss travel itinerary, we did so because we wanted to sample our favourite cheese that is produced here. It was only after we got there that we discovered that the town itself is utterly charming. The heart of Gruyères is a tiny medieval village that lies on either side of a single cobbled street lined with delightful little hotels, cafés and restaurants.
The village stands on the summit of a small hill. Our train to Gruyères left us at a station at the foot of this hill and we had to walk up since cars are not allowed inside the village. The fortifications looming over us were a reminder that the town has stood here since Roman times, and that its height made it easier to defend and ensured its survival during centuries of turbulence and strife.
Gruyères lies in the south-west of Switzerland, in the French-speaking cantons close to the border with France. The town is spread below Mount Moléson, a towering peak you can reach by hiking or riding a cable car. Gruyères lies in the spectacular Alpine foothills and all around are serene, grassy meadows covered with wildflowers. The cows who graze on these produce milk with a distinctive flavour, essential for producing the local cheeses.
The town was the seat of the counts of Gruyères who ruled the region for centuries and built Gruyères castle. When wars and revolution ended the reign of the counts, the castle was auctioned off to a wealthy couple, Auguste Baud-Bovy, an artist, and his wife Zoé, who was also a painter. They lovingly restored the castle and with the help of their artist friends decorated the interior. The castle is now a museum that is well worth visiting.
Climbing up into the castle tower gave us a spectacular view of the surrounding area. The castle gardens are kept in a formal French style that contrast sharply with the rugged stone walls surrounding them.
The counts of Gruyères also left behind the church of Saint Theodule, where generations of their family are buried. Sitting behind the church in the evening, surrounded by vineyards and listening to the musical sound of cowbells in the distance, was an unforgettable experience.
Cheese, of course, is why most people come to this town. Gruyère cheese is one of the most famous in the world, traditionally used in French onion soup, baked in the classic croque-monsieur, melted into a fondue or just eaten by itself. The economy of Gruyères runs largely on milk production, and you can find cheese, cream and butter advertised and served everywhere.
La Maison du Gruyère is the main factory that we toured to see how cheese is made. Most important is the aging process, and we visited the cellars where innumerable cheese rounds are allowed to mature in rooms with carefully controlled temperature and humidity. We sampled cheeses at different stages of aging, 3, 6 or 9 months after they were made, and the changes in flavour were very distinctive.
Gruyères is famous for more than just its delectable cheese. The cream made here, from free ranging, contented cows, is rich, thick and fantastic in coffee and desserts. In fact, it is so delicious that you almost don’t need anything to go with it! Then there are the famous meringues - sweet, crisp and addictive, they are usually served with double cream and fresh seasonal berries. A sensational dessert that you will find yourself ordering time and again while you are there!
You can’t visit Gruyères and not indulge in a classic Swiss cheese fondue. Made with local cheese and cream, it is served bubbling in cute little red pots, accompanied by such delights as pickled baby corn, new potatoes and of course, crusty bread. Sharing a fondue is a communal, convivial activity to be enjoyed with fine wine, good conversation and a lot of laughs!
The fondue we had in Gruyères was cheesy, creamy and oh so decadent! My fondue is served in a bread bowl and a big part of its charm is tearing apart the bread at the end and digging into the cheese soaked pieces. Children especially love this, you can’t go wrong with bread and cheese!
I like to add some baby spinach when frying the onions to make a spinach and cheese fondue that is also very delicious and a nice change from the plain cheese one. I have only used one type of cheese here but you can throw in other Swiss cheese varieties too, such as Emmental or Vacherin. And if you have some white wine lying around, feel free to add a splash as well!
Cheese Fondue Bread Bowl
20 oz round sourdough bread boule
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 sprig fresh thyme, optional
1 tbsp all purpose flour
1 cup each: milk, whipping cream
4 cups (350 g) grated Gruyere cheese
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
Pinch of nutmeg
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley for garnishing
8-10 boiled baby potatoes, sliced apples or pears, pickled cucumbers and baby corn for accompaniments, optional
Preheat oven to 350F. Line two baking trays with parchment.
Cut off about 1 inch off the top of the loaf, creating a lid. Cut the lid into large croutons. Using a sharp knife, cut around the insides of the loaf, leaving a half inch border on the sides and bottom of loaf. Hollow out the insides of the bread and cut them into large croutons.
Place bread and croutons on baking trays. Brush insides of bread and tops of croutons with 3 tbsp olive oil. Bake for 20 min until lightly crisp and golden.
Meanwhile, warm butter in large non stick skillet on medium heat.
Add garlic, onions and thyme (if using). Saute for about 4 min until softened but not browned.
Reduce heat to low, add flour and stir for 30 sec. Add milk and cream, stirring until smooth and slightly thickened.
Add cheese, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir until cheese melts and sauce is smooth, about 1 min.
Remove thyme sprig, if using.
Pour cheese sauce into warm bread, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with toasted croutons and other accompaniments such boiled baby potatoes, sliced fruit, pickled cucumbers and baby corn if desired.
Serves four
