Smoked Salmon Chowder In Tofino, BC, Canada
Tofino is the kind of place where you feel you have reached the outer limits of the Earth, and are about the fall off the edge. And you wouldn’t be too far wrong, for it is a small town located on the west coast of Vancouver Island. When you gaze westwards over the Pacific Ocean, there is not much besides water separating you from Asia.
Getting to Tofino is not very easy, but the journey is stunningly beautiful. Most people take a ferry from Vancouver to Nanaimo and then make the three hour drive across Vancouver Island. The road goes past Cathedral Grove in Macmillan Provincial Park, where you can see old growth forests of majestic red cedar and spruce trees. Paths have been constructed at a few places that allow you to walk through the forest and experience the majesty of the giant, centuries-old trees. Walking through the dense green forest, the air heavy with the scent of cedar, you are liable to come across toppled 800 year old trees with gigantic exposed roots - it is a fascinating way to break journey and stretch your legs.
The road winds between peaks that remain covered with snow even in summer. Ice-cold streams flow down from the melting snow and hardier visitors can go for a road-side dip. Even if you do not have the fortitude for that, you will find yourself stopping the car and getting out just to admire the breathtaking scenery. One such spot is Wally Creek with its famous love locks - a small chain link fence bordering the creek, festooned with locks left by travellers as a mark of their love. It is a little disconcerting to see this juxtaposition of the modern with such rugged, wild surroundings!
Huge waves break upon the western coastline of Vancouver Island. People come from all around the world to watch winter storms, and several resort hotels have built large glass-walled areas from where you can witness the full majesty of a raging storm as it rolls in.
Tofino is also a favourite destination for surfers who are attracted by the huge waves. It is now considered Canada’s most popular surf city, with a flourishing community of surfers. The Pacific Rim Highway, also known as Canada’s Surf Highway passes through several spectacular beaches such as Long Beach that are worth a stop and a quick dip if the mood takes you. A visit to the Pacific Rim National Park is a must where you can hike through gorgeous old growth rainforests that are unique to this area. Here, cedar planks form a walkway that winds its way through the serene, green forest with steps and bridges leading the way to scenic spots.
Tofino is a small town with about 2000 permanent residents who once depended largely on the logging and fishing industry for work. Today tourism is a much bigger employer, bringing in visitors who come for whale watching tours, camping and hiking in the nearby provincial parks, surfing or lounging on the beach, fishing, or just to gaze at the gorgeous scenery and enjoy fresh sea food!
Although small, Tofino boasts a number of wonderful restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy a meal of skillfully prepared, locally caught salmon. Smoked salmon chowder is the star of many a menu here and makes a great appetizer or light lunch.
An elegant, easy to prepare soup, this smoked salmon chowder is loaded with vegetables and infused with smoky flavour! For a more full bodied soup, add a piece of uncooked, skinless wild pacific salmon towards the last 15 mins of cooking, so that it flakes into the soup, adding texture and rich flavour, while thickening it at the same time. For a dairy free version, skip the whipping cream.
Smoked Salmon Chowder
2 tbsp olive oil
1 cup each, finely chopped: onions, carrots, celery, red bell pepper and
potatoes
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 sprig of fresh thyme
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
1/4 tsp dried oregano
1 tbsp all purpose flour
900 ml fish or chicken broth
1 tbsp each: tomato paste, balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup whipping cream
150 g smoked Pacific salmon, torn into large pieces
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
Warm oil in deep sauce-pot set over medium heat.
Add onions, carrots, celery, red pepper, potatoes, garlic and thyme. Saute, stirring occasionally until slightly softened, about 10 min.
Add salt, pepper, oregano and the all purpose flour. Stir until well incorporated, about 30 sec.
Slowly stir in the broth, mixing it in well to incorporate.
Add the tomato paste and the balsamic vinegar, then bring soup to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for about 40-45 min until vegetables are very tender.
Add cream and dill. Bring soup back to a gentle simmer, then remove from heat. Gently fold in the smoked salmon (saving a little bit for garnish). Ladle soup into bowls right away and serve garnished with additional dill sprigs and reserved smoked salmon.
Serves four
